Marky's posts with tag: pipeline
|  | My epic session at North Shore 2-4ft (Hawaiian Style). A day that separates the men from the boys. Started at Hale'iwa and worked my way to Chun's reef then Sunset Beach. Psyched up listening to Rockstar and had my mugshot taken in waikiki coz i knew i'll be eating shit all day.
I dialed 596-SURF and heard pipeline was going off. Cars and trucks with boards were all over the highway driving up to the north. It was like Aloha Festival at Hale'iwa and all surfers were out and running towards the beach.
The lineup was still olright as compared to waikiki and lots of delicious wahines at Hale'iwa. I got worked at sunset but all is good. I don't know to explain what i felt that day...
Surfing in hawaii doesn't make you different... it doesn't make you a unique surfer... it's nothing to brag about.. it doesn't make you fucking special but the thing is you go back to the roots of surfing..
You learn the history of your passion and most important you learn Respect!!!
Respect for the sea.. Respect to Hawaiian surfers... Respect to a fellow surfer!!!
this is the surfer's code... If you talk shit and you surf like a kook then you get
beat up and are not worthy of being a surfer...
No politics, no posers, no kook just pure adrenaline and happy vibes surfing.
No wave is free. You have to work hard for it and if you do, you have to charge it and not hold back. You have to ride with passion. You have to give it everything you can coz you 've earned that wave and lots of people in the lineup could have done better on it.
Women in hawaii don't have priority over waves. They also work their way for it.
Each individual have their shit going on in the lineup but deep in their hearts and at the end of each session when they meet up in a bar, the aloha spirit lives on and everyone is family (ohana). I wish our Philippine surfing community would be as such coz only then would we be respected by fellow surfers abroad.
Spreading the aloha spirit !!! Stay stoked...
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Music to listen to when north shore is going off ....
| rockstar | | Promo Only Mainstream Radio June | | nickelback | | | New Sun | | Right Back | | Long Beach Dub Allstars | | | Sensi | | Right Back | | Long Beach Dub Allstars | |
Small day at Pipeline but waves are enough to tear you apart :)
pipeline clip.wmv (7.5 MB)
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